The first time I sat down with a real knitting pattern — not a stitch my mother showed me in person, but words printed on a page — I stared at it like it was written in another language. And in a way, it was. K2, P3, YO, SSK, repeat between asterisks. I had been knitting for years by that point, following along with someone else’s hands, and here I was completely stumped by a piece of paper. If that is where you are right now, I want you to know that every knitter who has ever lived has been in that same chair.
The truth is, knitting patterns are not hard to read once you understand what you are looking at. They are written in a shorthand that exists for one reason — to save space. If every pattern spelled out “knit one stitch, purl one stitch, knit one stitch, purl one stitch” for two hundred stitches across a row, you would need a book just for a dishcloth. The abbreviations, the symbols, the brackets and asterisks — they are just a way of saying a lot with a little. And once that shorthand clicks in your head, you will read patterns the way you read a recipe. You will glance at it, know what comes next, and keep your hands moving.
I have worked from hundreds of patterns over the years — some beautifully written, some that made me want to throw my needles across the room. I have learned what to look for first, what to ignore until you need it, and how to tell a well-written pattern from one that is going to cause you trouble. That is what I am going to walk you through right here, from the very first line of a pattern all the way through to the finishing instructions. This is part of a much larger world of fiber crafts I cover over at Country Crafts & Homemaking — The Complete Southern Guide, but right now, we are going to get you reading patterns with confidence.
What a Knitting Pattern Actually Is
Before we get into the details, I want you to understand what a knitting pattern is at its core. It is a set of instructions that tells you exactly what to do with your needles and yarn, row by row or round by round, to create a specific finished piece. That is all it is. It is not a test. It is not a riddle. It is directions, like a map.
Every pattern, no matter how simple or how complex, has the same basic parts. There is a header section that tells you what you need before you start — the yarn, the needles, the gauge, the finished measurements. Then there is the instruction section that walks you through the actual knitting. Some patterns also include charts, which are a visual way of showing the same information. We are going to go through every one of these pieces so you know exactly what you are looking at.
The thing that trips people up most is not any one part of a pattern. It is the feeling of being overwhelmed by all of it at once. So here is my advice — do not try to understand the whole pattern before you start. Read the header, gather your materials, knit your gauge swatch, and then just follow the instructions one row at a time. The pattern will make more sense with needles in your hands than it ever will just sitting in your lap.
The Header Section — Everything You Need Before You Cast On
The top of every pattern gives you a list of what you need. This is not the part to skim over. I have watched people skip straight to the instructions and then wonder why their sweater came out big enough for two people. The header is where the pattern tells you exactly what it expects from you, and if you do not meet those expectations, the finished piece will not match what you see in the picture.
The first thing you will see is the yarn recommendation. The pattern will name a specific yarn — something like “Cascade 220” or “Lion Brand Wool-Ease” — and it will tell you how many skeins or yards you need. Now, you do not have to use that exact yarn. What matters is that you match the yarn weight. If the pattern calls for a worsted weight yarn, you need a worsted weight yarn. If it calls for fingering weight, that is what you use. If you are not sure what yarn weight means or how to match it, I go into all of that in Understanding Yarn Weight: From Lace to Super Bulky and When to Use Each. It is worth reading before you buy a single skein.
Next comes the needle size. The pattern will tell you what size needles to use — something like US 7 (4.5mm) or US 10 (6mm). It will also tell you whether you need straight needles, circular needles, or double-pointed needles. If you are new to all that, Knitting Needle Types: Straight, Circular, Double-Pointed & When to Use Each will walk you through the differences. The needle size listed in the pattern is a starting point, not a rule carved in stone. What actually matters is your gauge, which we will get to in a moment.
You will also see the finished measurements listed in the header. For something like a scarf or a dishcloth, this might be as simple as “8 inches wide by 60 inches long.” For a garment, there will be multiple measurements — bust circumference, length from shoulder to hem, sleeve length. These measurements tell you what the finished piece will look like after blocking, and they are what you use to pick your size.
The header may also list any notions you need — stitch markers, a cable needle, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, buttons or a zipper for finishing. Do not skip this part. There is nothing worse than getting halfway through a project and realizing you need a cable needle you do not have.
Gauge — The One Thing You Cannot Skip
I know you do not want to knit a gauge swatch. Nobody does. It feels like a waste of time when you are excited to start a project. But I am going to tell you the same thing I have told every person I have ever taught to knit — if you skip the gauge swatch, you are gambling with your time and your yarn, and the odds are not in your favor.
Gauge tells you how many stitches and how many rows fit inside a specific measurement — usually four inches by four inches. A pattern might say something like “20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 7 needles.” What that means is that the designer created this pattern based on getting exactly that number of stitches and rows in that space. If your knitting matches that gauge, your finished piece will match the measurements listed in the pattern. If your gauge is off, everything will be off.
Here is why it matters in real terms. If your gauge is just one stitch per inch tighter than the pattern calls for, and you are knitting a sweater with a 40-inch bust, your sweater will come out about 36 inches around instead. That is a full size smaller. One stitch per inch. That is all it takes.
To knit a gauge swatch, cast on enough stitches to make a piece at least five inches wide using the recommended needle size. Knit in whatever stitch pattern the gauge is measured in — usually stockinette, but sometimes the pattern specifies a different stitch. Knit until the swatch is about five inches tall. Then bind off loosely, and if the yarn calls for it, wash and block the swatch the same way you will treat the finished piece.
Lay the swatch flat on a hard surface. Place a ruler or measuring tape across the middle — not at the edge, the middle — and count how many stitches fit in four inches. Do the same thing vertically for rows. If you get the exact gauge listed in the pattern, you are ready to go on the recommended needle size. If you have too many stitches per inch, your knitting is too tight, so go up a needle size. If you have too few stitches, your knitting is too loose, so go down a needle size. Knit another swatch with the new needles and measure again.
For something like a scarf or a dishcloth, being a little off on gauge is not a disaster — your scarf will just be a bit wider or narrower. But for anything that needs to fit a body — a sweater, a hat, socks, mittens — gauge is everything. Do not skip it. I have frogged an entire sweater front because I told myself the gauge was “close enough.” It was not.
Abbreviations — The Language Every Knitter Needs to Learn
Knitting abbreviations are the shorthand that makes patterns possible. Once you learn the common ones, you will read them without even thinking about it, the same way you do not stop to think about what “tsp” means in a recipe. It just becomes part of how you read.
Most patterns include an abbreviation key somewhere — either right at the beginning of the pattern or at the end. Always look for it. Even if you think you know every abbreviation, different designers sometimes use different shorthand for the same thing, and it is better to check than to assume.
The abbreviations you will see in almost every pattern are the ones for the most basic stitches. K means knit. P means purl. These are followed by a number that tells you how many times to do that stitch — K5 means knit five stitches, P3 means purl three stitches. When you see K across or P across, that means you do that stitch all the way to the end of the row.
After that, you will start seeing abbreviations for increases and decreases. K2tog means knit two stitches together, which is a right-leaning decrease. SSK means slip, slip, knit — you slip two stitches one at a time as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loops. That gives you a left-leaning decrease. YO means yarn over, which creates a new stitch and leaves a decorative hole — this is how lace patterns are made. M1 or M1L and M1R mean “make one” — a nearly invisible increase that leans left or right.
You will see St st for stockinette stitch, which is knitting every right-side row and purling every wrong-side row. Garter stitch is sometimes abbreviated as g st, and that is knitting every row regardless of which side you are on. Rib stitch is usually written out as the pattern of knits and purls, like K2, P2 rib.
Then there are the structural abbreviations. CO means cast on. BO means bind off (some patterns use “cast off” instead). RS means right side — that is the side of the fabric that faces out. WS means wrong side — the inside. Rep means repeat. Beg means beginning. Rem means remaining. Sl means slip a stitch without working it. PM means place marker, and SM means slip marker.
Do not try to memorize all of these at once. You learn abbreviations the same way you learn anything — by using them. The first few patterns, you will check the key constantly. By the tenth pattern, you will only look up the unusual ones. If you are working on a crochet project and wondering about that set of abbreviations, the process is similar, and I walk through it in How to Read a Crochet Pattern: Abbreviations, Symbols & Charts Decoded.
Reading the Actual Instructions — Row by Row
Now we get to the part where the needles start moving. The instruction section of a pattern is where most people freeze up, but I promise you it is more straightforward than it looks. You just need to understand the conventions — the way instructions are organized — and then follow them one step at a time.
Most patterns for flat knitting (knitting back and forth on two needles) will label each row. You will see something like “Row 1 (RS): K3, P2, K5, P2, K3.” That tells you this is the first row, it is the right side of the fabric, and here is exactly what stitches to make across. Row 2 will be the wrong side. Some patterns number every row. Others only give you the odd rows and then say “Row 2 and all even rows: Purl across.” Either way, you work the rows in order, flipping your work at the end of each one.
For circular knitting — working in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles — the instructions will say “rounds” instead of “rows.” The key difference is that you never turn your work. You are always looking at the right side of the fabric. This means that stockinette stitch in the round is just knitting every round, with no purling at all. If you see a pattern that says “Rnd 1: Knit” and “Rnd 2: Knit,” that is stockinette in the round.
Here is where people get confused — the punctuation. Knitting patterns use commas, asterisks, brackets, and parentheses, and each one means something specific.
Commas separate one action from the next within a row. “K3, P2, K3” means knit three, then purl two, then knit three. Simple enough.
Asterisks mark a repeat section. When you see “*K2, P2; rep from * to end,” it means you knit two, purl two, and then go back to where the asterisk is and do it again. You keep repeating that sequence until you reach the end of the row. Sometimes a pattern will say “rep from * to last 3 sts, K3” — that means you repeat the sequence until you have three stitches left, and then you knit those three.
Brackets and parentheses work like asterisks but are usually used for smaller repeats within a row. “[K1, P1] 4 times” means you knit one, purl one, and do that four times total. Parentheses are also used for size variations — “(32, 36, 40, 44) stitches” means the first number is for the smallest size and the last is for the largest.
Understanding Row Repeats and Pattern Sections
Once you get past the basic row-by-row reading, you will notice that patterns are broken into sections, and some of those sections ask you to repeat a set of rows multiple times. This is where the pattern gets efficient — instead of writing out eighty rows, the designer writes out four rows and tells you to repeat them twenty times.
You will see this written several different ways. “Repeat Rows 1–4 until piece measures 12 inches from cast-on edge.” That is clear enough — you work those four rows over and over, measuring as you go, until the piece is the right length. Another common instruction is “Repeat Rows 1–4 a total of 15 times, then work Rows 1–2 once more.” Here, the designer is being precise about the number of repeats because the stitch count or the overall length needs to be exact.
Some patterns have named sections. You might see “Work in Pattern A for 6 inches, then switch to Pattern B.” Pattern A and Pattern B will be defined somewhere in the pattern — usually as a set of rows that you repeat. This is common in projects that have a ribbed border, then a main body in a different stitch, then shaping at the top. Each section has its own set of repeating rows.
The trick to keeping track of row repeats is simple — use a row counter or a piece of paper. I keep a little notebook next to my knitting chair, and every time I finish a repeat, I make a tick mark. When I pick the project back up after setting it down, I know exactly where I am. Some people use those clicker row counters that slide onto the needle. Others use an app on their phone. It does not matter what you use, as long as you use something. Trusting your memory with row repeats is a recipe for frogging.
Patterns that involve shaping — like the neckline of a sweater or the crown of a hat — will have rows that are not identical. These rows include increases or decreases at specific points, and you work them in order without repeating. When you see “Decrease Row: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1,” followed by “Next Row: Purl across,” and then “Repeat these 2 rows 8 more times,” the pattern is telling you to alternate between a decrease row and a plain row, doing that pair nine times total. You lose two stitches every decrease row, so after nine repeats, you have reduced your stitch count by eighteen. Patterns that involve this kind of math are why keeping a tally matters so much.
Reading Charts — The Visual Way
Some patterns include charts in addition to — or instead of — written instructions. A chart is a grid where each square represents one stitch, and the symbol inside that square tells you which stitch to make. Once you get comfortable with charts, many knitters actually prefer them because you can see the shape of the pattern emerging in the grid, which helps you understand what your knitting should look like.
There are a few rules for reading knitting charts that are different from how you would read a book. Charts are read from the bottom up, because that is the direction you knit — from the cast-on edge upward. Right-side rows are read from right to left, because that is the direction your needles move on a RS row. Wrong-side rows are read from left to right. If you are knitting in the round, every row on the chart is read from right to left, because you are always on the right side.
The symbols inside the chart will be defined in a legend or key. A blank square usually means knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side. A dot or a dash usually means purl on the right side and knit on the wrong side. A circle means yarn over. A right-leaning slash means K2tog. A left-leaning slash means SSK. These are fairly standard, but always check the key that comes with the specific pattern, because there is no single universal system.
Charts are especially useful for lace patterns and colorwork. In lace, you can see the diagonal lines of the decreases and the holes from the yarn overs forming the design right there on paper. In colorwork, each square is colored to match the yarn color you should use for that stitch. A chart for a Fair Isle pattern looks almost like a picture of what the finished knitting will be, which makes it much easier to follow than written instructions that say “K3 in A, K2 in B, K1 in A, K4 in B” over and over.
If you have never used a chart before, I suggest trying one with a simple pattern first — maybe a basic dishcloth with a textured motif. Follow along with both the written instructions and the chart at the same time. That way you can check one against the other, and you will start to see how the chart translates into stitches on your needle. Before long, you will find that charts are actually faster to follow than text.
Sizing and Choosing the Right Numbers
Garment patterns are written for multiple sizes, and navigating those sizes throughout the pattern is one of the things that causes the most confusion. But the system is actually very logical once you understand it.
At the top of the pattern, you will see the sizes listed — something like “XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL).” The first number in any set of numbers is always for XS, the second for S, and so on. This order stays consistent throughout the entire pattern. When the instructions say “Cast on 80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) stitches,” you look at whatever position your size is in and follow that number.
The way to choose your size is not by the label — Small, Medium, Large — but by the finished measurements. A “Medium” in one pattern might be a 36-inch bust, and in another it might be 38 inches. Take your body measurements, decide how much ease you want (ease is the difference between your body measurement and the garment measurement — more ease means a looser fit), and then pick the size that gives you the finished measurement closest to what you want.
I mentioned this earlier, but it bears repeating — before you knit a single stitch of the actual project, go through the entire pattern and circle or highlight every number that corresponds to your size. Every cast-on count, every decrease instruction, every measurement. Use a highlighter, a colored pencil, or make a photocopy you can write on. When you are in the middle of a decrease section and you need to know how many stitches to work, you do not want to be counting parentheses.
Understanding Pattern Notes and Special Instructions
Most well-written patterns include a notes section, and this is one of the most valuable parts of the whole document. Pattern notes tell you things the designer thinks you need to know before you begin — stitch techniques that are used in the pattern, construction details that might not be obvious, or clarifications about how the pattern is structured.
For example, you might see a note that says “This sweater is worked from the top down in one piece to the underarms, then the body and sleeves are separated and worked individually.” That one sentence tells you the entire construction method so you are not surprised when you get there. Another common note might say “A selvedge stitch is included on each side — this stitch is not shown in the chart.” That is critical information, because if you do not know about those extra stitches, your chart will not match your needle count.
Special instructions often include stitch definitions for anything beyond the basics. If the pattern uses a special increase or a particular cast-on method, the instructions will be written out in this section. Do not skip over these. Read them before you start, practice any unfamiliar techniques on scrap yarn, and then you will not be learning something new in the middle of a complicated row.
Finishing Instructions — Bind Off, Seam, and Block
The last section of a pattern covers finishing, and this is where a lot of knitters lose patience. You have spent days or weeks knitting all the pieces, and now the pattern wants you to do more work before you can use the thing. But finishing is what turns knitted pieces into a finished project, and doing it well makes the difference between something that looks handmade in a good way and something that looks unfinished.
Binding off is straightforward — the pattern will tell you when and how. Some patterns call for a standard bind off, others for a stretchy bind off (especially on necklines or sock cuffs), and some ask for a three-needle bind off, which joins two pieces together while binding off at the same time. If you see a specific bind-off method named, look it up and practice it before you do it on your project. Binding off too tightly is one of the most common problems, and it is heartbreaking on a neckline that will not stretch over your head.
Seaming is how you join pieces that were knitted separately — the front and back of a sweater, for example, or the sides of a pillow cover. The mattress stitch is the most common seaming method in knitting, and it creates an invisible join. The pattern will usually tell you which seaming method to use, or it will simply say “sew shoulder seams” and leave the method to you.
Blocking is the final step, and it is as important in knitting as it is in crochet. I go into the full details over in How to Block Crochet and Knitting Projects: Wet, Steam & Pin Methods, but the short version is this — blocking relaxes the yarn, evens out your stitches, and opens up lace patterns so they show their full beauty. A piece of lace knitting before blocking looks like a crumpled mess. After blocking, it looks like the pattern photo. Do not skip it.
When the Pattern Does Not Make Sense
There will be times — I promise you this — when you read an instruction and it simply does not make sense. The stitch count does not add up. The instruction seems to contradict what came before. You have read it four times and you still do not know what the designer wants you to do. This happens to everyone, and it does not mean you are not good enough to follow the pattern.
The first thing to do is count your stitches. Many moments of confusion come from being off by one or two stitches from a previous row. If your count is right, re-read the instruction very carefully. Look at whether the instruction is for your size specifically — sometimes the confusion comes from accidentally reading a number meant for a different size. Check the errata. Check the pattern’s Ravelry page and read what other knitters have said. Often, someone else has run into the exact same confusion and the answer is right there in the comments.
If you are truly stuck, put the knitting down and come back to it later. I cannot tell you how many times I have stared at a row instruction in frustration, walked away, come back the next morning, and it made perfect sense. A tired brain and a complicated pattern are a bad combination. And if you are just starting out with reading patterns, know that it gets easier. Every pattern you complete teaches you something about how patterns are written, and the next one will come more naturally. If you are still building those early skills, working through some beginner-friendly projects like How to Knit a Dishcloth: Beginner-Friendly Patterns for the Southern Kitchen or Knitting Scarves and Cowls: Beginner to Intermediate Patterns is a wonderful way to practice reading patterns without the pressure of fitting or complicated shaping.
Building Your Confidence One Pattern at a Time
The best way to get comfortable reading knitting patterns is to knit from them. That sounds obvious, but I have seen people spend weeks studying abbreviation lists and reading about gauge theory without ever picking up needles. The knowledge has to go through your hands to stick. Start with simple patterns — a garter stitch scarf, a stockinette dishcloth, a basic beanie. These patterns use the most common abbreviations, straightforward row repeats, and simple construction. You will learn the rhythm of how patterns are written without being overwhelmed by complicated techniques.
Once those feel comfortable, move to something with a bit more structure. A pattern that includes ribbing, a stitch pattern repeat, and some basic shaping will introduce you to brackets, asterisks, and decrease rows in a manageable way. A simple hat worked in the round will teach you how round-by-round instructions differ from row-by-row. A baby blanket with a textured pattern will give you practice following a chart. Each project builds on what you learned in the last one.
Pay attention to how different designers write their patterns. Some are very detailed, spelling out every row with no assumptions. Others are more concise, expecting you to understand that “work in pattern as established” means you continue the stitch pattern you have been doing without them writing out every row again. Neither style is better or worse, but you will develop preferences, and you will learn which designers write in a way that clicks with your brain.
And do not be afraid of mistakes. I have been knitting for decades, and I still misread a pattern now and then. The beauty of knitting is that you can always pull it out and start that section over. If you need to fix something without starting from scratch, How to Fix Common Crochet and Knitting Mistakes Without Starting Over covers the techniques that will save you time and heartache.
A Pattern Is Just a Conversation
I want to leave you with something I wish someone had told me early on. A knitting pattern is not an exam. It is a conversation between you and the person who designed it. They are trying to tell you, as clearly as they can, how to make something beautiful with your own two hands. And you are trying to listen, one row at a time.
There will be patterns that speak to you clearly, and there will be patterns that feel like they are mumbling. There will be instructions that click on the first read and instructions that take three tries. That is normal. That is part of knitting. The patterns that challenge you are the ones that teach you the most, and every finished piece — whether it came easy or whether it tested every last nerve — is proof that you can do this.
My mother used to say that a knitter who can read a pattern can make anything. She was right. Once you understand the language — the abbreviations, the gauge, the repeats, the charts — there is nothing between you and any project you set your heart on. A lace shawl, a cabled sweater, a pair of socks with a turned heel. It all starts with reading the first row and trusting your hands to follow.
If you are still working on those very first skills — learning to cast on, figuring out the knit stitch and the purl stitch — start with The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Knitting: Needles, Yarn & Casting On and come back here when you are ready. There is no rush. The patterns will be here waiting for you, and so will I.
